Posts tagged Gigabyte

Downgrade from F4 BIOS on Gigabyte ga-x79s-up5-wifi

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If you upgrade to the F4 BIOS and you experience problems, Gigabyte makes it really tough to downgrade to your old BIOS.  Make sure whenever you upgrade a BIOS to save the previous version just in case you have issues.   Gigabyte even says on their BIOS download page:

Because BIOS flashing is potentially risky, if you do not encounter problems using the current version of BIOS, it is recommended that you not flash the BIOS. To flash the BIOS, do it with caution. Inadequate BIOS flashing may result in system malfunction.

With that information feel free to upgrade but know it might not work.

To downgrade back to your old BIOS you can use the FTK_0.9.6.1_DOS.zip tool.  It allows you to install a BIOS without using Gigabyte’s tool.  You can download it here: FTK_0.9.6.1_DOS.  First you need the HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool to create a bootable file from a USB drive.  You can find the HP tool here: SP27608.  Next grab the Win98SE_bootdisk.iso. You can find the Win98SE_bootdisk.iso here: Win98SE_bootdisk.  extract the iso using something like winrar to a directory and use it with the HP tool to create a bootable win 98 usb stick.  next but the extracted FTK files and the older f3 BIOS on the stick.  Insert the usb stick into your computer and boot it up.  Hit F12 to get to the boot menu and select the USB stick.  Once that’s selected you will boot into win 98 DOS environment.  From there, CD to the directory of your F3 BIOS, you can find my copy here: 10.13.2013.f3.bios.

Now run: fpt -bios -f biosname.bin

After a few minutes it will say completed!  now power off your system and reset the CMOS.  You do this by either removing the batter from the motherboard for five minutes or using the jumper on the motherboard. see page 27 of the manual.  “Use this jumper to clear the CMOS values (e.g. date information and BIOS configurations) and reset the CMOS values to factory defaults. To clear the CMOS values, use a metal object like a screwdriver to touch the two pins for a few seconds.”

Finally once you reboot you should be back to the F3 bios.

 

Here’s a great resource for all your BIOS needs: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/27576-bios-flashing-how-qflash-guide.html

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48085-gigabyte-modified-bios.html

Here is also a great tutorial on using the efiflash.exe file that is included with each bios you download from gigabyte:

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,2441.msg89013.html#msg89013

You need to create a bootable drive using a USB stick, then update the BIOS using the EFI Flash Tool through DOS. Once you have upgraded past F5 BIOS you can use QFlash as normal. 

Check here for help in creating Bootable USB Pendrive: http://rufus.akeo.ie/

Download the BIOS File for your motherboard and save it to your desktop so that you can find it easily. Double click on the 7Zip file (it is self extracting) and it will put the 3 download files onto your desktop for you. You only need the EFI Flash Exe file and the BIOS File, the Autoexec file can be discarded. Make a note of the BIOS File name as you will need this information later in the process and if you don’t get this part correctly you will not be able to update the BIOS.

Create the Bootable Pendrive using the Rufus program.

Copy the Efiflash exe and BIOS files onto the USB Pendrive

Reboot the PC and press F12 to go to the BOOT Menu.

Select the USB Pendrive  and press enter, this will take you into the DOS environment.

At the C:/ prompt type: Efiflash and press enter. This will start the Efiflash tool.

At the C:/ prompt type: efiflash xxxxxx.xx (replace the x’s with the name of your BIOS File that you noted earlier) IMPORTANT: Make sure that you insert a space between the words efiflash and the BIOS name. Also make sure you enter the full point (.) before the BIOS version number. Press enter.

The BIOS Flashing process is now done and there is no further input required. The first stage you will see that the BIOS is being erased. The 2nd stage the BIOS is written and the 3rd stage the BIOS is verified. DO NOT power down or reset the PC whilst this process is happening. Once the BIOS update has been verified the PC will automatically go into a shutdown/restart/shutdown/restart sequence. DO NOT PANIC, this is normal. 

Once this sequence has finished you can enter BIOS and make any changes you require, as you normally would.”

 

 

Hope that helps!

Silverstone SG03 Case

Silverstone Sg03 + Gigabyte GA-G33M-DS2R + Intel Q6600 + Zalman CNPS8700 LED = Too Hot?

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This was something i posted over at HardForums a while back.  It was a problem with getting the temperatures down on a new build.  The build included a Silverstone Sg03 Case, Gigabyte GA-G33M-DS2R motherboard, Zalman CNPS8700 LED HSF, and an Intel Q6600 processor.  The problem with the build was the case was a small form factor case with a small motherboard and a blazing fast (but hot) processor.   The way the case is setup is the power supply sits directly over the CPU and Heatsink and Fan.  The Sg03 is great because you can put the latest processor, full ATX PSU, and full length video cards in it.  The downside is it’s all packed in such a small area and the temperature are bound to get hot.  To make matters worse, there is very little ventilation in the back side of the case.
Sg03 + GA-G33M-DS2R + Q6600 = too hot?
(i have a similar post in Overclocking and Cooling but i thought SFF group might have more experience with this type of setup)I have a GA-G33M-DS2R and Q6600 in a Sg03 case, my cooler is a CNPS8700 LED and my temps are really high idle and at load. At first i thought the high temps were because i had applied the Arctic Silver 5 incorrectly ( i spread out the paste on the entire cooler instead of the single line of paste in the middle like Arctic Silver suggests.) I also tried moving the case fan to blow more directly on the CPU (stock configuration has the case fan in the middle) Temps didn’t really change much.

Here are my temps with no overclocking.

SpeedFan 4.32
Idle: 37C, 35C, 33C, 33C
Load (after 20min of Orthos): 76C, 75C, 75C, 75C

CoreTemp 0.95
Idle 52C, 50C, 48C, 47C
load (after 20min Orthos): 91C, 90C, 90C, 90C


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TJunction on this CPU is 100C

The next step i’ve found to reduce my temps would be to remove the CPU retention clip so there will be better contact between the heatsink and CPU. i might try lapping as well.

here is the clip i’m talking about and an example of someone that did it::

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=229063

To solve the problem i tried a few things.  First, i went with the CNPS8700 LED over the stock heatsink which  brought the temps down a couple degrees. My q6600 has the old stepping so it ran a little hotter. Both heatsinks worked fine, i initially bought the CNPS8700 LED because i thought the stock heatsink wouldn’t fit. The CNPS8700 LED dropped the temps by a few degrees so depending if that decrease in temperature is worth it to you, you may just want to go with the stock HSF. If i was building the computer again i would have saved the money on the Zalman CNPS8700 LED.
I ended up not touching the cpu retention clip because it didnt seem like it was causing the problem. The high temps were because i didnt apply the thermal grease optimally. If you have arctic silver 5, check the website for the proper way to apply the grease. You can see it here.
Another thing that really helped the temps was putting a slot cooler in the top slot above the power supply. i put mine in with a fan regulator to keep the noise down. When the case is upright, the cpu is close to that area, and since heat rises, the slot cooler does a good job exhausting heat from the case.
The final temps using CoreTemp V.95 were:

Idle:
42 degrees to TJunction remaining
44 degrees to TJunction remaining
46 degrees to TJunction remaining
48 degrees to TJunction remaining

Full Load:
26 degrees to TJunction remaining
27 degrees to TJunction remaining
28 degrees to TJunction remaining
28 degrees to TJunction remaining

The build also had two 120mm scythe fans up front and the fan controlled slot cooler in the top rear like i mentioned earlier. As you can see the temps run sorta high but not too high. The system is 100% stable. I did not do any overclocking and the system is extremely quiet. I also had tried flipping the PSU so its fan can help exhaust the CNPS8700 LED but it really didn’t make a difference. Overall i was happy with the build and would pick the same parts again.

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